Sarah Burton exquisitely distills Lee Alexander McQueen’s legacy into everything she touches under her helm as the Creative Director of Alexander McQueen, and Pre-Spring/Summer 2023‘s menswear array is nothing but quintessential of the House. Tailoring is sharp and traditional at first glance, but tweaks have been made to elements like the lapels, shoulders and waists to nip, tuck, accentuate, and oversize the blazers for a contemporary look. Likewise, the use of utilitarian dealing throughout PSS23 elevates conventional menswear into a darker realm, something we feel Mr. McQueen would be proud of.

From blazers that are punctured with metal eyelets on the breast and shoulder to cigarette-skinny tailored pants that echo the hardware theme, this is not your usual black suit. Nor are the accessories, as pouches, belts, and other small leather goods are highlighted by the signature Grip metal handle, buckle, or whatever it may be per the accessory.

But for days off, McQueen continues such touches by applying the same eyelet effect to essentials like hoodies, joggers, a rather delicious leather biker jacket, ribbed sweaters, or for something truly on the naughty side, a black shirt accented with harnesses running over the shoulders. Likewise, an entire outfit can be built using the eyelet-covered Alexander McQueen Oversized Sneaker or Deck Lace Up Plimsoll, also coming in black.

However, true to the House’s ability to offer something for everyone, PSS23 presents “Spring Blue,” “Lilac” and a “Watercolor Graffiti” hue across techwear, everyday necessities, tailoring (here arguably even sharper and boxier) and most impactfully for the latter effect, on a range of streetwear-leaning outerwear like puffer coats.

Throughout the collection is an element of bringing nature to the concrete jungle, and wrapping up in an Alexander McQueen uniform that perfectly evokes such a theme. From shirts in a sandy, utilitarian beige tone that’s embroidered with nettles to a camouflage that’s actually made out of the McQueen logo, or perhaps workwear-inspired patchwork denim that’s fit for exploring the great outdoors but is, in fact, rather tailored, all the clues for a wardrobe refresh are there.

Take a look a the collection above, and shop the Pre-Spring/Summer 2023 range from Alexander McQueen online and in boutiques worldwide now.

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